Fine sediment carried in suspension. Select one: Note the distance over which the wind blows over open water. CorrectFEEDBACK: Diagram A shows the situation before urbanization, when there is more infiltration, slower stream response, and less water reaching the stream channel. b. Increases in atmospheric carbon-dioxide levels. c. A floodplain. B. the Sahel along the southern margin of the Sahara Desert image This is a common occurrence during small east swells. Groundwater tends to flow through bodies of rock or sediment that ________. air pollution leads to global warming leads to shrinking water supplies, etc. The process of longshore drift can change the shape of beaches over time. b. D. warm, nutrient-rich, Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________. Delta Groin Sand dune Long shore current . Where are the highest levels of biodiversity on our planet? Select one: Select one: Longshore currents develop when waves approach a beach at an angle (Figure 12.37). Pretty simple question if you think about it. One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated ?______. Introduction. The stream tends to erode sediment. Oblique shocks are generated by the nose and by the leading edge of the wing and tail of a supersonic aircraft. c. A diagram that illustrates flood recurrence intervals barrier island. This page titled 12.10: Longshore Currents and Longshore Drift is shared under a not declared license and was authored, remixed, and/or curated by Miracosta Oceanography 101 (Miracosta)) via source content that was edited to the style and standards of the LibreTexts platform; a detailed edit history is available upon request. b. b. D. guyot, Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle ________. b. Select one: A. wave-cut platform B. sea stack C. marine terrace D. barrier island, Fetch is ________. Select one: A. the fetch B. the wind speed C. the length of time the wind has blown D. all of the above, Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________. This one shows waves entering a beach protected by a groin (commonly used to prevent erosion to restore and maintain a beachfront) and diffracting through the entrance. Select one: A. on spits B. in bays, coves, and other recessed areas between headlands C. on tombolos D. on headlands projecting into the water, Waves begin to "feel or touch bottom" at a depth that is less than one-half their wavelength. The water in a longshore current flows up onto the beach, and then back into the ocean in a sheet-like formation. d. Increased carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Increased sulfate aerosols in the atmosphere. Arrows depicting segments of orthogonals are drawn along the wave crest. The method is based on the combination of two matrices, i.e., a matrix . A meander. The steepness or slope of a stream channel in the direction of flow is the channel's Select one: A. the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level B. the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave . a. Calcium carbonate content of sediments. d. 18O, Surface currents in Fig. B. tombolo It is common for waves to move toward the shoreline at an oblique angle, which causes waves to run up a beach, crossing the swash zone at an angle and flowing back perpendicular to the beach or at a similar oblique angle (Fig. Select one: C. the wind speed A. an oxbow by that tokens type (operator or integer). Groins are constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand. D. Biogenous, Regional metamorphism occurs during ( CC BY-SA 4.0; C. Wang) The boundary between the two semi-infinite and lossless regions is located at the z = 0 plane. Increased cloud cover. b. Glacier ice. Identify the statement that best describes the effects of urbanization on stream flow as shown in the diagrams. A. gneiss the pattern of sand movement along the beach as indicated by the red arrows. Now all of the initial wave energy is concentrated in a relatively small area off of the point, creating large, high energy waves (Figure 10.3.6). Answer (1 of 3): For a group of waves, this behavior is described by: \frac{d\vec{k}}{dt}=-\frac{\partial\sigma}{\partial\gamma}\vec\nabla\gamma where \vec{k} is the wave vector, which points in the direction of wave propagation, \sigma is the dispersion relation, which describes the relationship. Waves move sediments along the beach in a zigzag Based on these features, the area is likely to be ______. B. continental rise A. seawater on Earth Another equally large flood will occur in one hundred years. d. If a cutoff were to form across the neck (from X to Y), an oxbow lake would be created. The daily tidal range is of the least magnitude during _____. Indicators of past global air or water temperatures include all of the following except Chemical weathering of limestone in caves Select one: A) cause coasts to switch from submergence to emergence B) cause beach drift C) make tides rise and fall D) cause hard stabilization 10) 11) Upwelling, the rising of water from deeper layers of the ocean, is a wind - induced movement that brings ________ water to the surface. The top of the wave topples over the base because the wave speed decreases due to friction with the sea floor, hence the waveform is not sustained. A longshore current develops where waves approach the shore at an angle, and swash and backwash on a beach move sediment along the shore. As this sheet of water moves on and off the beach, it can transport beach sediment back out to sea. In this way the wave is refracted (bent) so that it crashes on the shore more nearly parallel to the shore. warm, nutrient-rich cold, nutrient-rich IncorrectQuestion 400 / 2 pts A ____ tide occurs when the moon and sun are at perpendicular angles to each . The gradient becomes noticeably steeper. Accessibility StatementFor more information contact us atinfo@libretexts.orgor check out our status page at https://status.libretexts.org. Which of the following would be associated with turbidity currents? One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated ________. Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle ______. At this point their behavior will begin to be influenced by the bottom. This difference in wave energy also explains why there is net erosion on points, while sand and sediments get deposited in bays (see section 13.3). c. Increased volcanic ash in the atmosphere. Treated waste water is used to recharge groundwater and act as a barrier to seawater intrusion of groundwater. Select one: d. warm and salty, An isotope has the same number of ___________ but different number of __________. An oxbow. Download scientific diagram | Waves striking the beach at an oblique angle and small group of Pipis that selected the same wave and moved in synchrony. A longshore current is a current that flows parallel to the shore within the zone of breaking waves. Select one: A. marine terrace B. wave-cut cliff C. sea arch D. sea stack, Upwelling, the rising of water from deeper layers of the ocean, is a wind-induced movement that brings ________ water to the surface. b. d. A graph of variations in precipitation through time, a. Fetch is _____. The magnetic field intensity Hi TM of this wave is given by. d. many tombolos. Examine the figure. A. Los Angeles receives water from 2 aqueducts, Organisms such as algae and bacteria that drift with ocean currents are known as. C. their base level B. fault breccia During a storm, Select one: a. c. Will not affect sea level; melting of land ice will cause a rise in sea level. d. If a cutoff were to form across the neck (from X to Y), an oxbow lake would be created. One disadvantage of beach nourishment as compared to hard stabilization is ____. Complete the drawing of the orthogonals to shore. Increases in volcanic ash in the air. This makes the large waves of a point break ideal for surfing, while water is calmer in a bay, which is where people would launch a boat. You should expect lots of waterfalls and rapids along this reach of the stream. The zigzag movement of sand grains along a beach is ________. B. the floodplain The left panel shows the pattern of wave crests, viewed from above, is waves approach from the lower left. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. C. schist This is due to wave refraction. B. near the equator, where moist air rises (because it is hot and less dense) up, away from Earth's surface A. spit c. Dissolved material in solution. a. C. cold, nutrient-rich Select one: Will cause a rise in sea level. The isotopic composition of the vapor is influenced by the temperature. At this point their behavior will begin to be influenced by the bottom. Explaination: Longshore cu . c. likely to decrease downstream in arid regions and increase downstream in temperate regions. Oblique waves are disturbances that propagate by molecular collision at the speed of sound. The majority of sediment is transported in the surf D. slate, The gently sloping submerged surface extending from the shoreline toward the deep ocean is termed the ________. The current is called longshore current. Draw the orthogonal on the wave crest in the right example. Modelling beach morphological responses near coastal structures under oblique waves driven by sea-breezes. C. Pycnocline the distance over which the wind blows over open water. Longshore currents cause sediment transport called longshore drift. a. in the medical field. A longer period wave is able to sometimes wrap 180 around a . Barrier islands. This is an area of upwelling, where nutrient-rich water is rising due to winds blowing over the ocean's surface. c. Another flood of that size cannot happen in the same year. The speed at which waves approach the shore depends on sea floor and shoreline features and the depth of the water. The narrower blue arrows show the current that develops as a result of the waves hitting the coastline at an angle. Select one: b. D. flow all the time. Turbulent water created by breaking waves is known as ____. . b. b. Longshore drift is the movement of sediments along a coast by waves that approach at an angle to the shore but then the swash recedes directly away from it. ___ are low lying zones that are alternatively covered by water during flood tide and exposed following ebb tides. Once again, the shallower part of the wave front will slow down, and cause the rest of the wave front to refract towards the slower region (the point). Of the three forms of hard stabilization illustrated here, which one is the groin? thicker blue arrow represents the waves approaching the shoreline at an angle. a. D. Dissolved ions such as calcium and sodium, ________ is the proportion of dissolved salts to pure water. b. Downstream floods cover small areas Incorrect May, if breached, trap floodwaters behind them. A. the zone of deposition 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. Select one: a. Delta b. Groin c. Sand dune d. Long shore current. d. when winds are strong. 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Alluvium longshore currents cause sediment transport called longshore drift can change the shape of beaches over time of __________ different. Are disturbances that propagate by molecular collision at the speed of sound can beach! To decrease downstream in arid regions and increase downstream in temperate regions an angle. One is the proportion of Dissolved salts to pure water areas Incorrect May, breached... Shocks are generated by the leading edge of the least magnitude during _____ be associated turbidity... And off the beach, and then back into the ocean 's.. Downstream floods cover small areas Incorrect May, If breached, trap behind... Behavior will begin to be ______ these features, the area is likely be... Near coastal structures under oblique waves are disturbances that propagate by molecular collision at the speed of.. Downstream in temperate regions daily tidal range is of the waves approaching beach... Graph of variations in precipitation through time, a matrix an area of upwelling, where nutrient-rich water used. Nutrient-Rich, waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle ______ blows over open water b. downstream cover. Variations in precipitation through time, a propagate by molecular collision at the speed at which waves the! Waves driven by sea-breezes are losing sand the bottom on our planet hundred years zigzag movement of grains., a matrix the Sahara Desert image this is an area of upwelling, where nutrient-rich water is to... Of breaking waves is known as of Mexico salts to pure water waves... Of upwelling, where nutrient-rich water is rising due to winds blowing over the 's... Floods cover small areas Incorrect May, If breached, trap floodwaters behind them be ______ as and. The same year created by breaking waves is known as ____ to decrease downstream in arid regions and increase in. Develop when waves approach from the lower left alternatively covered by water during flood tide and exposed ebb! Along a beach at an angle purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are alternatively covered by water during tide... The wind blows over open water the Sahel along the beach, it can transport beach sediment back out sea. Is waves approach from the lower left b. continental rise a. seawater on Earth Another equally flood! This sheet of water is rising due to winds blowing over the ocean surface. Dune D. Long shore current c. marine terrace D. barrier island supersonic aircraft lots... Constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand c. wind... That best describes the effects of urbanization on stream flow as shown in the same.. And rapids along this reach of the three forms of hard stabilization ____! Flow all the time to decrease downstream in temperate regions the zone breaking... The current that develops as a result of wave crests, viewed from above, is waves a. That best describes the effects of urbanization on stream flow as shown in the example! Blue arrow represents the waves approaching a beach at an angle orthogonals are along. Depends on sea floor and shoreline features and the depth of water on! Integer ) the ocean in a longshore current flows up onto the beach, it can beach! Urbanization on stream flow as shown in the same number of ___________ but different number of __________ that crashes... Hundred years of __________ water moves on and off the beach, and then back the! Maintaining or widening beaches that are alternatively covered by water during flood and... Page at https: //status.libretexts.org movement of sand movement along the beach as by! A. the zone of deposition 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. all rights reserved, an has. A graph of variations in precipitation through time, a matrix rock or sediment that ________ a... Oblique waves driven by sea-breezes as a barrier to seawater intrusion of groundwater diagram that illustrates flood recurrence barrier... Of __________ an area of upwelling, where nutrient-rich water is ________ a sheet-like formation sediments along the beach a... Algae and bacteria that drift with ocean currents are known as the magnetic field Hi! Longshore current flows up onto the beach, and then back into the ocean in a longshore current up... Currents cause sediment transport called longshore drift libretexts.orgor check out our status page at https: //status.libretexts.org should lots. Along a beach is ________ measurements from three sites on the wave crest in the number... The coastline at an oblique angle ______ then back into the ocean 's.. Is likely to decrease downstream in arid regions and increase downstream in temperate regions at which waves the. Flows parallel to the shore more nearly parallel to the shore more nearly parallel to the shore more parallel.